March 6th, 2010 by Peter DePasquale
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I’ve been racing to get my printer done before spring break starts (now) and I leave for a conference next week (Tuesday). The X and Y decks are in, the power is in, the boards are mounted, and endstops are mounted, the Z deck is in… but… I managed to destroy two of the three ribbon cables used to connect the motherboard to the stepper boards. Not sure how I’m going to replace them as they are no for sale on Makerbot.com. Looks like it’s time to email Bre.
Additionally, while building the plastruder, the insulation tape ripped and I am very unhappy about how loose it ended up being around the print heater. I am likely to order a supply of new items, like the insulation tape, to eventually replace it (summer)?
I’m angry at the build directions, as I can not find how the endstops should be connected, how the wires should go, and if I need to wait to do this. If one follows the directions to a “T”, you would not connect them. Finally, I completely don’t understand the popsicle stick and endstop directions. Can someone post a good close of series of photos of how yours looks? I’m not clear on where I’m gluing the sticks, size of the sticks, where they are placed, etc. The directions are far, far too vague.
March 5th, 2010 by doans
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Prior to our successful (and very exciting) print the other night, we ran into a curious problem during print attempts. Namely, during the actual printing all the stages would suddenly stop but the Plastruder would continue emitting plastic. Here is an example of a failed attempt:

We even tried loading the model onto an SD card and building from the card. The same problem occurred. The interesting thing about this is that the print would stop in a random location each time. Finally, after digging around some forums for awhile, I found a post by someone suggesting a specific combination of versions for the software and firmware to use. With a lack of anything else to try, we decided to give it a shot. This involved downgrading the current versions of the software and firmware we were using. We then, with anticipation, attempted another print and, seemingly like magic, it worked!
Here is the list of software/firmware versions that we were using when our print was successful:
ReplicatorG 009
Skeinforge 005
Motherboard firmware 1.4
Extruder firmware 1.6
March 4th, 2010 by jadudm
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Sara and Stephanie should be very pleased; they are responsible for the construction of Allegheny’s first Cupcake CNC 3D printer!
This was very exciting.
The builders and their aptly named Victory Cupcake. Many congrats.
February 26th, 2010 by Peter DePasquale
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Rather than continuing to post here on my building progress, I’ve created a number of video blogs of my adventure. These 10 minute entries are available on YouTube, but sadly are very visual in nature. Do check them out to hear/see my progress. I’m catching up to the girls – who I think at last report were building the dinos (part of the plastic extruder). Been there, done that. By the time next week is done and spring break starts (and I head to SIGCSE).
February 23rd, 2010 by Cory
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We started some private discussion about what the user interface of the software portion should look like, how it should function, where the software should be stored (on a server or locally) and other logistical things. One of the objectives is to make the software as portable as possible across as many platforms as possible. This goal would probably be most easily achieved through a server-side software configuration that can be accessed via a web browser. This would also make our challenges with accessibility a bit easier as well, since any modern screen reader will be able to handle a web interface right out of the box. After all, the web is the future, right? Of course, this does have some security issues we have to keep in mind. For example, who will have access to this service, especially when it’s in its initial stages, and how can we control user access? The first idea that comes to my mind is that we could put this service behind a firewall of some kind, and allow only certain people access through the firewall. On the other hand, let’s say we go with the approach of storing the software locally. We may have some accessibility issues to address. Most screen readers communicate directly with operating system controls to provide the feedback that they do. I reported a while back on this blog about my findings with virtual box, something I didn’t have much success with on a count of it using QT. QT is useful because it makes it easy to make software more portable, but many screen readers will have trouble with it without some kind of modification, as they do not use standard operating system controls. These are some of the design issues we are considering, and obviously there are tradeoffs either way.
February 22nd, 2010 by Peter DePasquale
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So the body of the printer was spray painted over the last few days. I tried this first indoors in the basement with very bad results – angry wife, smelly house, etc. Over the weekend I moved the operation outside and hit he body with at least two coats of gold paint. It’s not perfect, but good enough. I don’t have that much time to make it so utterly perfect that it is a work of art. I hope to start putting the body together soon (tonight…)
February 16th, 2010 by doans
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I don’t recall us having any trouble with the bearings falling out of the pulley wheel. Actually, we had the opposite problem, and had a hard time getting them in because they were so tight. As for a solution, you could glue down the bearing, although, keep in mind that the bearing/pulley assembly will be bolted down.
February 13th, 2010 by Peter DePasquale
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The opto endstops are soldered and just need some trimming with a pair of nippers that I don’t have. I’ve moved onto the insertion of the bearings into the pulley wheels (see http://wiki.makerbot.com/cupcake-cnc-0:cupcake-pulley-assembly). While most of this went smoothly, I am concerned that one of the bearings literally falls out of the wheel when the wheel is inverted and lightly shaken. I’m concerned that it needs to be glued. Did you folks encounter anything like this?
February 11th, 2010 by Peter DePasquale
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A completed look at the OptoEndstops. I'm not quite there yet...
Given all of the snow, I finally took home the electronics kit for the 3D printer to work on while waiting out the blizzard(s). I did remember to get a soldering gun, as I know the first few steps involve soldering the OptoEndstop. Sadly, I went cheap with my soldering gun and bought a battery-powered gun which really only helped for the first board. It can’t really keep up with the soldering / heat demands needed to solder all of the resistors, plugs and the like, so I need to go spend some additional monies and get something based on real power.
The actually soldering took longer than I expected, but I didn’t have a vice or anything to hold the board in place. So, there’s something else to obtain. I think once I get a better gun and a vice, I’ll be able to get through all of the soldering in a few evenings. If I can dig out from the snow, I may try to run down to Home Depot and get each item so that I can continue to make progress ASAP.
Based on the Alleghany student’s photos, I’m looking forward to putting the body of the printer together. That looks like fun and something that seems to be a little easier than the soldering.
Photos from the OptoEndstops coming soon…
January 26th, 2010 by doans
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The next part of building the printer was putting together the heater barrel part of the Plastruder. The first step was to solder together the nichrome wire and the wire that will eventually connect the nichrome to the extruder controller. When we send electricity through the nichrome it will heat up, then heat up the heater barrel which it will be wrapped around and then heating the plastic that will run through the barrel. We also needed to older together the thermistor to the thermistor wires.
Next, we needed to wrap the nichrome wire around the threaded heater barrel, which is between the nozzle and the thermal barrier. We then attached the thermistor from the nozzle down the heater barrel. This step was all done with the help of our trusty friend Kapton tape. To insulate the heater barrel, we wrapped it with ceramic tape and then added a few more layers of Kapton tape, mostly to hold it all in place, but also because we just love it so much.
The next step was to add on the retainer washer. However, this involved unscrewing the barrier from the heater barrel. Somewhere in the process of unscrewing and rescrewing the barrier from the barrel, the nozzle came loose. This meant that we needed to unwrap all of our lovely Kapton tape, reset the nozzle and do it again. It slowed up progress for us and we recommend putting the retainer washer on in the beginning to avoid the possibility of having to redo it all.
Despite the little bump, we finished our heater barrel assembly. Here are some final pictures:

